Sies Marjan: Led by former head of creative designs for Dries Van Noten, Sander Lak. His debut collection for NYFW was sublime. This is a fresh show to be held during NYFW, it felt more like PFW with a little Milan but it works. Its well designed, well styled, and stood upon the precipice of bold separates that can make any outfit. I loved the tie knot bias cut floral dress, the navel tie knot as made famous by YSL under Tom Ford back in the 1990s, with that glorious pantsuit. I loved the color palette of neutral beige and regular colors under the influence of a mix of printage, florals, and watercolor like Kandinsky collages. I look forward to more of what he does. I mean this was the best debut like Michelle Helene's show since Rosie Assoulin, Public School, Protagonist, and Delpozo made their own NYFW debuts.
Tome: This chic NYC brand masters the art of wanting to be shipwrecked with bulky silhouettes that are uber chic, mixing patterning of stripes with solids. Now there seems to be more detailing like a pirate like corset lace up jacket in a black color, mixed with sheer bell sleeves circa 1800s, with a beautiful front obi tie (asian like) white dress with a lacey underlay shirt. I always love how great they style together the pieces to look haphzard with a purpose and it works!
Public School: The grunge is back and in a good way. Mixing in not only bold, underlying jewel tone hues with dark charcoal black and greys but the power lies in the detailing and styling. The sheer skirt with a cozy black sweater, chic. A duster pink jacket with boots and a red smokey long dress, chic. Clipped long skirt with a moto style woolen grey charcoal jacket, love. This is where I like Public School right now. Maybe if they evolve more at DKNY, I will like them there too. But Dao-Yi and Maxwell, know their brand and clientele.
Victoria Beckham: Gone are the days of her own aesthetic in pure neutrals. Ms. Beckham has evolved her own persona mixed in with a little Philo and Prada, to give us what she thinks her customer base likes based off of her own preferences. It truly works. The late 90s, plaids and spaghetti strap long slip dresses. I love it all.
Jonathan Simkhai: Simkhai's frills and fringe is all the rage on this runway. I loved the detailing and structures of the clothing made in this outfit. The lace white top and long bottoms. I love the idea of neutrals with details. It all looked amazing and the movement is enviable. Truly stepped up this season as this is one memorable collection.
Prabal Gurung: Ugh, this whole collection asides from the print detailing of floral orchids and jewel tone purples, screams classic Prabal. Loved the bare shoulder flowing dresses towards the end. But the real stunner was the fur glamours, the different derivatives of colors, shapes, and sizes. Can find any woman in these. It amazingly works.
Sally LaPointe: Super luxurious. I loved the various color palettes and textures that all meshed together in one cohesive collection. The placement of furs at the shoulders as a stole, chest, and arms. So chic, updating the old winter staple of a simple knit with fur and a sexy skirt if you must. The movement on them were enviable and the highlight was the stunning embroidered grey long jacket, can you imagine the various outfits a glamour girl downtown and uptown can put together? I need that in Bergdorfs stat.
Jenny Packham: Finally, we are back to the 70s in metallic shimmers. The flouncy and hip baring dresses remnant of another age and I like it. There are many studio 54 dresses to be found in this collection and a red carpet one for everyone. I do like the transition into circular floral appliques towards the end, its a nice change but felt a little haphardly done, a tad random but it works.
All in Day 4, presented some strong and some safe collections from solid brands.
~Kaye Beeh
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